Drop ceilings consist of a metal grid that is suspended from the ceiling (or upper floor) joists of a building. The grid system allows for a level ceiling surface even if the original ceiling supports are not. Frequently filled in with acoustic or architectural tile, this ceiling type can combine sound dampening and aesthetic qualities to fit many applications, as well as leaving easy access to the between spaces and any plumbing or wiring running overhead. Any plumbing or roof leaks that may damage the ceiling can easily be repaired by replacing a few tiles instead of the whole ceiling.
Instructions
Perimeter Mold
1. Measure down a minimum of 4 inches from the lowest point of the ceiling joists to determine the ceiling height. Allow extra room if plumbing needs to be accommodated.
2. Set up the laser level in the middle of the room, 4 inches lower than the ceiling height so that the laser line plus the gauge block will equal the finished ceiling grid height.
3. Run the perimeter molding 4 inches above the laser using the gauge block. Nail the molding to the wall at each stud. Run the first stick of molding all the way from corner to corner.
4. Butt the adjacent wall at inside corners. The subsequent stick will overlap it and butt the first wall. Outside corners must be cut on a 45 degree miter with snips to make a nice corner with no overlaps. Be careful to not deform the molding too much while cutting or the corners will be ragged and unattractive.
Runners
5. Measure out 4 foot intervals across the room perpendicular to the joist direction. Stretch a chalkline to connect these marks. Pull the line tight then pinch the middle of the line, pull down slightly and release. This will 'pop' the line against the joists to leave a colored chalk mark. These marks will locate the runners as well as the supporting eye screws.
6. Drive an eye screw into each joist at the chalkline. Cut 12-inch sections of 16-gauge wire, and thread one end through the eye about 3 inches then twist the short tail around the wire to lock it in place. Pre-wire all the eye screws, this will make hanging the runners easier.
7. Rest the end of the first runner in position on the perimeter mold. Elevate the runner to the correct height using the gauge block off the laser line and thread the wire through the closest runner hole. Twist the wire around itself to lock the runner into the finished height. Lock the runners together with the end tabs if it takes more than one runner stick to reach all the way across the room. Repeat this process until all the runners are hung.
Cross Pieces and Panels
8. Place the cross pieces at the appropriate interval, 2 feet for 2x4 panels and 4 feet for 4x4 panels. Lace the cross pieces into the runners with the end tabs and slots provided. Repeat until all cross pieces are snapped in and the grid is complete.
9. Slide one end of a panel through its grid hole and into the space above. Push the panel the rest of the way up and then let it settle back onto the runner/cross piece support.
10. Place any trimmed edges that may be needed around the perimeter towards the adjacent wall to help hide the cut edge and carve any shoulders back onto the cut edges to allow the tile to lay flat.
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