Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Develop A Room Divider Wall

Too many siblings in one room can lead to arguments over space and belongings. If children are bickering over private space and personal property, a room divider wall may be the key to restoring family harmony. A room divider can be free-standing, but it is often better to build a durable, floor to ceiling wall. A room divider wall is an opportunity to update heating and cooling ducts, add computer and phone jacks, electrical outlets, additional light fixtures and dimmer switches.


Instructions


1. Use a stud finder to locate ceiling joists. Mark both ends of the joist at the center line, using a carpenter's pencil. Snap a chalk line along the center of the joist.


2. Use a plumb bob to determine the correct vertical from the center line of the ceiling joist to the floor. Mark the wall at the floor where the center line of your room divider wall will need to be. Snap a chalk line from floor to ceiling between the floor mark and the chalk line on the ceiling.


3. Check ends of all 2 by 4's to ensure that they are cut at 90 degree angles. 2 by 4's are not always cut to exact standards and can be off plumb by as much as 15 degrees or more, which will affect your measurements when framing your room divider wall. If your boards are not cut at 90 degree angles, fix them with a circular saw or a miter box and back saw. Be sure to wear a dust mask and eye protection.


4. Center a 2 by 4 along the chalk line on the ceiling. Use a "free hands" dry wall hanging tool to help hold the board in place while you drive 3 inch long wood screws into the board every eight inches, beginning one inch from the wall.


5. Hang a plumb bob from the center line of the ceiling joist you just secured, at the end farthest from the wall. Mark the floor at the contact point. Snap a chalk line from the mark on the floor next to the wall to the mark on the floor underneath the plumb bob. Center a 2 by 4 board on the line. Screw board into place using 3 inch wood screws every 8 inches, beginning one inch from the wall.


6. Measure wall between the ceiling joist and floor joist you just installed. Cut a 2 by 4 to that length using a circular saw. Check plumb. Knock your stud into place between the floor and ceiling joists, being sure to make it plumb. Use shims if needed. Secure wall stud at top and bottom using wood screws every 8 inches, beginning one inch from the wall.


7. Repeat Step 5 for the opposite end of the room divider frame, measuring between the floor joist and ceiling joist. Drill screw holes one inch from the floor joist and one inch from the ceiling joist on the stud, at a 45 degree angle, so that the screws will pass through the stud and then through the floor and ceiling joists. Countersink holes. Repeat step 6 for each wall stud needed. studs should be between 18 and 24 inches apart. All studs should be secured at floor and ceiling using wood screws set at a 45 degree angle into each joist.


8. Run any wiring, wire electrical outlets, dimmer switches, phone jacks, computer access lines, and HVAC vents or ductwork while studs and frame are still open. Hang sheetrock, securing with sheetrock screws. Hang each sheet horizontally for greatest wall strength. Use a keyhole saw to cut wall outlet holes and light switch openings.


9. Cover seams and corners with joint tape and joint compound. Wipe away any drips or smears. Use a wet cloth to buff away any burrs after joint compound dries. Sand joints smooth using medium sandpaper. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to prevent dust accumulation. Be sure to wear a dust mask and eye protection when cutting and sanding drywall or wood. Paint wall as desired. Add ornamental trims along the floor, ceiling and chair rail if desired.








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