Make a Solar Heat Collector
The solar hot-air space heater is a simple design that takes advantage of the properties of hot and cold air. The tendency of hot air to rise and cold air to sink and their interaction with each other in this system is called the thermosiphon effect. This is a passive system that uses air convection to take in cold air, heat it up and deliver warmed air to a living space. The thermosiphon effect will continue so long as the sun shines on the solar heat collector.
Instructions
1. Cut a sheet of 4-by-8-by-1/2 inch plywood to 3 foot 3inches by 8 foot with a circular saw.
2. Cut a 2-by-4-by-8 foot stud into two 3 foot lengths.
3. Fasten two 2-by-4-by-8 studs flush with either 8-foot edge of the sheet of plywood. Fasten the two 2-by-4-by-3 studs flush with the top and bottom edges of the sheet of plywood with 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Drive the screws through the back of the plywood into the studs. Fasten the 3 foot studs to the 8 foot studs by toe nailing the ends of the studs together using screws.
To toe nail two boards together, a nail or screw must be driven at a steep angle through the sides of one board into the board that is perpendicular to it. Toe nailing is used when a nail or screw cannot be driven straight through the back of one board into another.
4. Cut one 1-by-4-by-8 board lengthwise into equal widths.
5. Cut the two 1-by-2-by-8 pieces to 7 feet, 9 inches long.
6. Fasten the two 1-by-2-by-7, 9-inch pieces to the inside of each 8 foot stud. Seat the 1-by-2-by-7 foot 9 inch pieces on the plywood. Attach using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Screw the 1-by-2-by-7 foot, 9-inch pieces to the 2-by-4-by-8 studs.
7. Use the silicon caulk to seal all the seams in the solar collector container. Allow 24 hours for the silicon caulk to cure.
8. Paint the interior of the container with the black paint.
9. Flip the container over and cut two slots 4 inches wide by 3 feet long along the top and bottom edges three inches from the top and bottom edge and 1 1/2 inches in from each side of the plywood. Use a spade bit and drill a pilot hole at each end of the two slots. Use a jigsaw to cut the 4-inch widths then use a circular saw to cut the 3-foot lengths.
10. Cut a sheet of 3-by-8 foot corrugated metal roofing to 3 foot by 6 feet, 10 inches. Use an abrasive metal-cutting circular saw blade to cut the roofing.
11. Paint the 3 foot by 6 foot 10 inch corrugated roofing black paint.
12. Mount the corrugated metal roofing - black side facing out - inside the solar heat container on top to the 1-by-2-by-7 foot, 9-inch strips. Align the roofing so it sits between the top and bottom slots. Drill a hole in each corner of the corrugated roofing and secure it to the 1-by-2-by-7 foot, 9-inch strips with drywall screws.
13. Mount a 2-by-4-by-3 stud horizontally on an exterior, south facing wall of a house or shed. Mount the stud at floor level using 1/4 inch by 6 inch lags screws to secure it to the structure. This stud will serve as a ledge on which the solar heat collector will rest. Remove any siding so the solar heat collector rests flush against the structure.
14. Place the solar heat collector on the ledge vertically and trace an out line of the slots on the structure. Use a 1/4 inch spade bit to drill a pilot hole then use a jigsaw to cut out slots in the structure. Be sure not to saw through wall studs cut only to the depth of the sheathing when cutting around studs. These slots in the structure are the cold air feed and the warm air exhaust of the solar heat collector for the living space.
15. Place the collector on the ledge and line up the slots. Secure the collector to the structure with six 2 1/2-inch drywall screws through the back of the solar heat collector into the sheathing of the structure. Apply silicon caulk to the perimeter of the collector where it meets the structure.
16. Center a 4-by-8 foot sheet of 6 millimeter clear polyethylene over the top to the 2-by-4 stud framing. Staple the polyethylene around the frame carefully stretching and stapling the polyethylene to make it completely smooth.
17.Cut two 1-by-4-by-8 boards lengthwise to equal widths. Attach two 1-by-2-by-8 pieces flush with either 8-foot stud edge, secure the 1-by 4-by-8 foot board with drywall screws through the polyethylene to the 2-by-4 stud frame.
18. Cut one of the remaining 1-by-2-by-8 boards to two 1-by-2 -by-3 foot pieces. Attach two 1-by-2-by-3 pieces flush with the top and bottom stud edge. Secure the 1 inch by 4-by-8 board with drywall screws through the polyethylene to the 2-by-4 stud frame.
19. Trim any excess polyethylene flush with the 2-by-4 stud frame. Use a utility knife to trim any excess.
20. Seal the top perimeter of the heat collector container with silicone.
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