Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Apply Drywall For Acoustic Framework

Reduce sound transmission by using traditional drywalling techniques over acoustic framing.


Successfully deadening sound transmission through walls is primarily a matter of reducing the vibration of the wall caused by sound waves. Two common methods of doing so are by adding mass to the wall, or isolating the wall from the wood studs. With acoustic framing, resilient channels are placed throughout the wall. These channels serve as anchor points for the drywall panels. By attaching the panels to the channels, you isolate the wall from the wood studs, adding flexibility to the drywall that reduces vibration from sounds.


Instructions


1. Attach a strip of soundproofing tape to the flange along the center of each of the acoustic framing channels. The tape helps to reduce the vibration of the drywall.


2. Place 2-inch-thick neoprene vibration pads onto the floor along the baseline of the wall. The drywall will rest on the pads. Space the pads every 2 feet, running lengthwise along the base of the wall. The pads also reduce vibration while maintaining a joint between the bottom of the drywall and the floor. You'll need joints all around the wall to reduce vibration from adjacent surfaces. The 2-inch pads will compress under the weight of the drywall panels, reducing to a height of 1/4 inch.


3. Set the first drywall panel against the studs and acoustic channels, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the side of the panel and the adjoining wall. Position the panel onto the vibration pads. Attach the panel to the acoustic channels using drywall screws drilled through the panel and then through the center of the channels. Space the screws about 12 inches apart and sink them slightly beneath the drywall surface, creating small dimples in the drywall. Make sure the end of the panels stops on the center of an acoustic channel. Cut the drywall to fit if needed. Mark a cutting line across the board with a straightedge and a pencil, then score the line into the drywall with a utility knife. Snap the board along the scored line to make the cut.


4. Continue down the bottom row of drywall, attaching the drywall only to the acoustic framing channels and cutting a partial board for use on the end of the row. Maintain the 1/4-inch gap at the end of the row as well.


5. Place the next row of drywall above the first, maintaining the 1/4-inch gaps at the edges and using the same attachment technique. Continue to place each row of drywall onto the acoustic framing, cutting the top row lengthwise to fit the partial space while maintaining the same 1/4-inch gap between the top of the wall and the ceiling.


6. Use a 4-inch drywall mud knife to cover all of the screw dimples in the drywall with drywall mud. Switch to a 6-inch knife and cover the seams between the drywall panels with drywall mud, filling them.


7. Place a strip of drywall paper tape over the covered seams while the mud is wet. Smooth out the tape with a dry 6-inch drywall knife. Switch to a 10-inch drywall knife and place a thin layer of the mud over the tape. Allow the drywall mud to dry for 24 hours.


8. Fill in the gaps along the floor, sides and top of the drywall with flexible non-hardening caulk to create an airtight gap. Allow the caulk to dry for 48 hours before painting the walls.








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