Transform a concrete walled basement into a living space with drywall and floor covering.
A concrete wall is rarely desirable. While unavoidable in most basements, unless you have a wood foundation, concrete can be damp, cold and impersonal. To add style and warmth, you could build a stud wall against the concrete and cover it with drywall. The simplest method, however, is to create furring strips, insulate between them, and top with a moisture barrier before drywalling. Add a little paint or wallpaper and not only will you be pleased with the results--you may even forget you are surrounded by concrete.
Instructions
1. Measure along the bottom of the wall, marking every 16 inches with a pencil, the entire length of the wall. Repeat at the top, marking every 16 inches.
2. Snap a chalk line between each mark at the top and the bottom of the wall, or use a length of wood as a straight line and draw from top to bottom between each mark. You will have guides placed every 16 inches along the wall.
3. Attach wood furring strips to concrete to provide a frame to insulate and drywall.
Place a furring strip in the middle of each mark, starting at a corner. Raise the furring strip a half-inch above the floor, laying the board flat against the wall (instead of edge-wise) and aligning it so it is directly centered over the guide marks. Drive a concrete nail through the furring strip and into the concrete at the top of the board. Verify that the board is perfectly level, then continue nailing down the length of the strip, from floor to ceiling, anchoring every 12 inches. Continue until all furring strips are placed.
4. Cut sections of styrofoam insulation or other rigid insulation, measuring 16 inches wide. Apply construction adhesive to the backside of each insulation section, then press into place against the concrete and between each furring strip. Continue until complete.
5. Cover each wall with a plastic moisture barrier, spreading it over the furring strips and insulation already placed. This is especially important on exterior walls as dampness can leach into your drywall on outside walls, while interior walls will stay dryer. Try to use unbroken sections of plastic. Staple the plastic to the furring strips to attach, avoiding unnecessary holes. Overlap any seams in the plastic several inches, taping the joint from top to bottom to eliminate any moisture leaks.
6. Hold a piece of drywall against the wall, starting again in a corner. Push the drywall firmly into the corner, flush against the adjoining wall. Lift the drywall off the floor 1/2 inch (the same as your furring strips) to avoid moisture seepage from the floor and to provide clearance for added flooring. Secure each sheet of drywall, using drywall screws and a drill, to each furring strip. Space screws every 12 to 24 inches along the furring strips.
7. Hang your second sheet of drywall tight against the first and continue attaching. Cut out any objects such as doors as necessary, measuring and marking on the back of a drywall sheet. Use a utility knife and straight edge to cut as needed. Continue until drywall covers the entire surface.
8. Drywall compound, tape, a putty knife and some sanding will finish the job.
Spread a light layer of drywall compound across each screw hole present in the drywall, and along each drywall seam. Tape across each seam with drywall tape, then butter on another thin layer of drywall compound over top the tape. Smooth each nail hole and seam as much as possible; allow it to dry a day or two.
9. Sand each seam and nail hole, using first rough, then fine-grit sandpaper. Repeat, spreading another thin layer of drywall compound, smoothing, drying and sanding if needed. Complete your installation by painting your new wall as desired.
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