Drywall finishing is simple to understand but difficult to master. Drywall panels are hung next to each other using either screws or nails. Where the panels meet is called a joint. The joints need to be covered with tape, which needs to be covered with joint compound so that the taped joints will not be seen through a coat of paint. The process is fairly straightforward, but it is time-consuming.
Supplies
Drywall supplies are available at most hardware stores. You will need a selection of drywall taping knives. A 6, 8 and 12 inch knife will suffice in most cases. Also, you will need a device to hold the joint compound, such as a mud pan or a drywall hawk. For sanding, you will need 100 and 150 grit sandpaper and an angled drywall sanding sponge for corners. Finally, use paper drywall tape and pre-mixed joint compound. It takes a long time to dry, giving beginners more time to work with it. If you find it difficult to use the joint compound because it is too thick, you can add a little bit of water to it. But don't add so much that it becomes runny.
First Coat
The goal of the first coat is to install drywall tape over all joints. To begin, use a 6 inch drywall knife to apply a thick layer of joint compound over a joint. It is important to make sure there are no bare areas, so apply the joint compound liberally. Then lay a section of tape over the joint and wipe the tape with an 8 inch drywall knife to remove as much joint compound as possible from underneath the tape. When you are finished with a joint, it should be as smooth as possible. For interior joints, fold the tape in half to give the corner a crisp line. For exterior joints that have corner bead (a metal cover that is installed over a protruding corner), use your 6 inch knife to cover it with a coat of joint compound. Finally, coat all the fastener heads with just enough compound to hide them.
Second Coat
The goal of the second coat is to cover and hide all the installed drywall tape. Using a 12 inch drywall knife, apply a thick coat of joint compound over each joint. Try to wipe your knife in such a way as to leave the outside edges smooth while still covering the tape completely. For interior joints, coat each side with a 6 inch drywall knife. For exterior joints (corner beads), coat each side with a 12 inch knife. Finally, coat all the fasteners again with a thin layer of joint compound.
Third Coat
The goal of the third coat is to leave all the surfaces finished and ready for primer paint. Sand all the areas that have been coated in the previous steps with 100 grit sandpaper. Then apply a thin layer of joint compound to the joints with a 12 inch drywall knife and wipe it off immediately, leaving the surface as smooth and polished as possible. Do the same for the exterior joints (corner beads). Interior joints typically do not need a third coat. Instead, use an angled sanding sponge to leave the corner as sharp and blemish-free as possible. Finally, coat all the fasteners with a thin coat of joint compound.
Final Touchups
After the third coat has dried, use 150 grit sandpaper to sand all the surfaces that received a third coat. With a halogen or other bright light source, examine all the surfaces for imperfections. Sand these imperfections with your sanding sponge, and re-coat them with joint compound if necessary. Finally, wipe down the walls and ceilings with a soft broom to knock the joint compound dust off. The room is now ready for painting and priming.
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