Most drywall repairs require just a few simple tools.
Although drywall is not as durable as some other wall coverings, such as wood paneling, one of its advantages is the ease with which you can make repairs. Small holes often require nothing more than patching compound and recoating with joint compound, also known as mud, and cracked seams can usually be repaired with drywall tape and mud. Larger holes and other repairs that require replacement of a section of drywall are only slightly more troublesome. If you have to replace drywall because it is wet or moldy, though, be sure to diagnose and repair the cause of the moisture.
Instructions
1. Patch holes smaller than an inch in diameter with patching compound. Mix the compound with water until it is stiff, and fill the hole with a putty knife. Let the patching compound set for two hours, and then coat the patch with drywall joint compound, using a 4-inch drywall blade. Let the compound set overnight, then recoat. When the final coat dries, sand it with 120-grit sandpaper prior to repainting.
2. Stuff holes wider than an inch but less than about 4 inches --- such as might be made by a doorknob --- with newspaper and then fill the hole with spray foam insulation. When the foam dries, cut it flush to the drywall surface with a utility knife, and then topcoat it with two layers of mud.
3. Retape joints that have cracked or where the tape has formed bubbles. Scrape off the old mud with a putty knife, and cut away any tape that has separated from the wall, using a utility knife. Spread new mud on the wall and lay moistened drywall tape on top of it. Scrape the tape flat with a 4-inch blade. Recoat the repair twice, letting the mud dry in between coats. Use progressively larger drywall blades to scrape each successive coat so the repair will feather into the wall.
4. Reattach metal corner beading that has separated from outside corners, using drywall screws, before reapplying mud. Scrape away dried mud that has cracked and separated, and then drive the screws through the metal beading into the studs with a drill and a #2 Phillips bit. Each screw should make a slight indentation on the beading. Recoat the beading using the same procedure you would use for recoating a paper seam.
5. Repair larger holes, water and mold damage by cutting out the damaged drywall and replacing it with a new piece. Draw a rectangle that extends from the center of a stud to the center of another one and which encompasses the damage, using a straightedge and a pencil. Cut the line between the studs with a drywall saw, and use a utility knife to cut along the stud face to make a hole.
6. Cut two lengths of 1-inch by 4-inch lumber that will fit tightly between the studs and place them inside the wall, one overlapping the top edge of the hole and one overlapping the bottom edge. Screw the pieces of lumber to the studs or to the existing drywall, using drywall screws.
7. Measure the dimensions of the hole with a tape measure and cut a new piece of drywall to fit. Place it in the hole and screw it to the studs on either side, using drywall screws. Mud and tape the seams, and then topcoat them with one or two coats of mud, using successively wider blades to scrape each coat. Sand the seams with 120-grit sandpaper prior to repainting.
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