Bare or old ceilings very quickly become an eyesore. Suspended ceilings are a perfect solution because they are extremely versatile and easy to repair, but they do require a lot of preparation.
Instructions
Preparation
1. Measure and diagram the room you will install the ceiling in.
2. Use the dimensions of the ceiling tiles, usually 2-feet square or 2-feet by 4-feet to create a rough diagram of the ceiling grid. The ceiling beams should be perpendicular to the joists and you will likely need to leave a border of partial tiles around the edges, plan accordingly. Use this diagram to determine how many grid pieces and ceiling tiles you will need.
You can also use the Ceiling Material Estimator listed in Resources.
3. Determine a height for your ceiling plane. Generally between 3 and 6-inches. Start in one corner, measure and mark an inch above your desired height. Using a carpeting level to mark three of the walls and snap a chalk line to mark the fourth.
4. Align the top edge of the molding at the marks you've made on one wall, and attach it with nails. Repeat for the other three walls.
For inside corners, butt the moldings together. You should miter outside corners for the best look.
5. Use the grid made earlier to measure the width of first partial ceiling tile, and mark its position at ceiling level at both ends of the room.
6. Snap a chalk line between the marks made earlier. Measure 2-feet to the next beam position and mark that.
7. Install eye hooks at all of the intersections between the joists and your ceiling beams.
8. Hang about 14-inches of wire through all of the eye hooks. Poke the wire through the hole and wrap it around a section three or four times, allowing the remaining wire to hang down.
9. Tie strings between the moldings. Place them parallel to the joists about 4-feet apart, and make sure they are taut.
Ceiling Beams
10. Calculate the length of your first partial tile, and measure it on one of your ceiling beams. The upright slots are where the cross tees meet, so measure from there.
11. Use tin snips to cut the beam to length. The best way to cut is down the upright at a slight angle and then across the bottom of the beam.
12. Butt the cut end of the beam on the molding and point it to the nearest wire. Poke the wire through the nearest hole and wrap it so the beam is level.
Repeat for any other wires that reach the beam piece.
13. Measure and cut another piece of ceiling beam and slot the ends together. Butt the cut ends in the opposite moldings and tie them to the ceiling with the hanging wire.
14. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the remaining ceiling beams. Follow your diagram carefully.
Cross Tees
15. Measure a Cross tee to the middle of the beam nearest the wall and cut it to size. Slot the end into the beam and place it square against the molding.
Repeat for other cross tees along the wall.
16. Check the grid is square by measuring the diagonals.
17.Install the remaining cross tees. Remember to install the cross tees at 2- or 4-foot intervals depending on the types of tiles you have.
Panels
18. Measure and cut the perimeter tiles. Measure from the wall to the intersections and add 1/4-inch for the dimensions, and use a utility knife and a piece of scrap tee as a straightedge.
19. Install the perimeter tiles. Slide the ceiling panel through the grid at an angle and then drop into position.
Repeat for the rest of the perimeter tiles.
20. Work inward, sliding the remaining tiles through the grid at an angle before dropping them into position.
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