The Department of Energy (DOE) tells us that you can save $250 to $400 heating an insulated basement. There are variables like how cold the winters are and what type of heating system is used. Aside from the energy cost-savings, installing insulation to the interior of an existing home's basement is cheaper than trying to insulate the exterior of the home as may be done on new construction.
Instructions
1. Check for evidence of leaks along the walls. To remove salt-like deposits called efflorescence, use a wire brush dipped in an etching acid-solution specifically designed for this purpose.
2. Repair cracks less than one-eighth inch wide by first scraping out loose pieces and then fill the crack with the waterproof mix. Repair large cracks by first scraping out cracks to remove loose pieces and at times chiseling out the crack to open a deep but narrow crevice making it more suitable for adherence of the repair mix. You can purchase specifically designed hydraulic cement mixes for filling basement wall cracks or make your own mortar using one part cement with two parts sand. Mix in a small amount of water to create a stiff mortar that can then be applied with a putty knife or trowel.
3. Mist the wall with water before brushing on the first coat of a waterproofer, like DryLock. With the walls damp, the masonry will not pull moisture from the waterproofer. Make sure the waterproofer gets into all surfaces when you are brushing it on. Wait for the wall to dry according the manufacturer's instructions and then apply a second coat, which may be applied by roller to speed up the process.
4. Build the two by four wall framing on the floor and then lift and install it to the wall. If you have clay soil, you will need to use floating walls to deal with minimal rise and fall of the cement slab. If in doubt as to whether or not you have clay soil, go with the floating wall concept. The studs will be nailed 16 inches apart on center to the top and bottom plates using three and one-half inch nails. The finished framing should be three-quarters to one and one-half inches shorter than floor to ceiling. Raise the framing into position. Check to make sure the framing is plumb. With a power nailer, secure the bottom plate to the floor. Use L brackets and screws that are specifically designed for floating walls to secure the top of the framing to the joists.
5. Run wiring for electrical outlets, phone and cable TV/internet.
6. Choose and purchase one of DOE's suggestions for insulating the basement walls of an existing home where the basement will be heated. One option is to hire a professional to spray foam insulation between the framing of the walls. Another option is a cheaper, do-it-yourself method using rolls of fiberglass insulation. When insulating a heated basement, the ceiling of the basement does not get insulated; only the walls are insulated.
7. Staple the insulation to the studs with the foil or craft side facing the interior of the room. Cut the insulation to fit around outlets and switches. Scraps of insulation can be used to fill in small areas.
8. Install gypsum board (drywall) to the walls and ceiling (if desired) using drywall screws or ring shank nails. Cover joints and corners with drywall tape and taping compound using a six inch wide taping knife. Follow that with a coat of topping compound using an eight inch wide knife. Then a final topping coat should be applied with a ten inch wide taping knife. Also apply topping compound over nail or screw heads.
9. Sand the compound areas down to a smooth surface. Apply primer and paint.
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