When mudding and taping a drywall ceiling, take great care with your work to ensure beautiful results.
Applying mud and tape to a drywall ceiling is a difficult and time-consuming chore. However, if done properly, the results last a long time. Ceilings are completely visible, so it is not possible to hide mistakes with furniture or wall hangings. Take your time while sanding so the finished surface is extremely smooth and the ceiling will look great when painted.
Instructions
1. Place sheets of plastic drop cloth on the floor to collect the sanding dust. This reduces cleanup time and protects the flooring.
2. Apply a coating of spackle on each screw hole with a 4-inch spackle blade.
3. Start in a corner where the ceiling meets the wall and apply a 1/8-inch thick layer of joint compound that is three inches wide to the center of the seam with a 4-inch spackle blade.
4. Center the end of drywall tape over the seam in the corner where the ceiling meets the wall. Allow one inch to hang down on the wall.
5. Press a 4-inch spackle blade on the tape where the ceiling meets the wall. Hold the blade on a 45-degree angle and slowly draw it across the drywall tape while holding the tape at an angle between the ceiling and the spackle blade. Press the tape into the joint compound while keeping the tape straight, centered over the seam and the spackle blade at an angle.
6. Apply a thin coat of joint compound over all seams, starting from the first seam that was taped.
7. Repeat Step 3 through Step 6 for each seam on the ceiling.
8. Apply a 1/8-inch layer of joint compound in each corner where the ceiling meets the wall with a corner blade. Extend the joint compound two inches from the corner on each side.
9. Crease the center of the drywall tape and press the end of the drywall tape into a starting corner. Hold the corner blade on a slight angle and press the folded drywall tape into the corner, aligning the crease with the center of the corner. Press firmly with the blade to remove bubbles, and keep the drywall tape straight and centered in the corner. Allow to dry for 24 hours.
10. Sand the joint compound over all seams, corners and screw holes with 80-grit sandpaper.
11. Apply a coating of joint compound on each screw hole and seam, extending the joint compound past the edges of the first application. Use a 4-inch spackle blade for the screw holes, a 10-inch spackle blade for the seams and a corner blade where the ceiling meets the wall. Allow to dry for 24 hours.
12. Sand the joint compound over all seams, corners and screw holes with 80-grit sandpaper.
13. Apply a final thin coat of joint compound on each screw hole and seam, extending the joint compound past the edges of the second application and sanding. Use a 4-inch spackle blade for the screw holes, a 10-inch spackle blade for the seams and a corner blade where the ceiling meets the wall. Allow to dry for 24 hours.
14. Sand the final coat of joint compound over all seams, corners and screw holes with 120-grit sandpaper.
Related posts
Separation at the seam between a wall and the ceiling of your home is aggravating. There are many possible causes. A house will settle over time which can cause some slight misalignment. It could...
Drywall damage is fixed easily, though it takes time to dryWhen a seam or crack in drywall appears, it usually means that either the house has shifted a little over time or that a dry climate has...
Improper application at the top of the wall may result in loose drywall tape.The drywall contractor forms a smooth inside corner where the top of the wall meets the ceiling by filling the seam bet...
About Drywall Joint TapeDrywall contractors commonly use large gypsum panels in the construction of interior walls. These panels provide a smooth surface for painting or applying wall covering, af...
Drywall tape that is not installed properly can bubble.Drywall is used to face interior walls. It comes in sheets that must be joined during installation. This is commonly accomplished with paper...
