Use A Basement Ceiling

Basement ceiling tile.

Ceiling tiles are the No. 1 choice for finishing a basement ceiling. They are relatively easy to install and allow access to the house mechanical systems if maintenance or repair is required. With a wide variety of styles available, there is a ceiling tile installation for every home. This installation procedure includes balancing the tiles along the walls, to create a professional look and avoid having tiles just a few inches wide.

Instructions

Layout and Preparation

1. Determine installation direction. The main beams will run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. If the ceiling tiles are 2 by 4 feet, decide which way they will run. The grid can be installed to orient the tiles in either direction.

2. Determine the tile sizes along the walls. Measure the length and width of the room. For each measurement, divide it by the length or width of the tiles in inches, either 24 or 48. Calculate the remaining length or width not filled by whole uncut tiles. Divide by 2. This is the length or width of the tiles next to those walls. Repeat for the calculation for the length or width of the tiles in the other direction. See the Tile Size illustrations for clarity.

3. Determine the starting position for the first main grid tee. The tile width or length for the walls perpendicular to the joists is the position of the first Main Tee, measured off one wall. Mark each end and snap a chalk line across the joists.

4. Determine the next main tee position. Mark the joists 4 feet from the first position and snap a chalk line. Continue, measuring 4 feet over for each main tee. When you reach the opposite wall, the distance from the wall to main tee should be the very close to that at the first wall. Minor differences of an inch or so won't be noticed.

5. Install the ceiling grid screw eyes. Begin with the first joist at either end and install a screw eye in every other joist at the chalk line. Install a screw eye in the last joist as well. Use the drill with the screw eye bit and drive the screw eye straight in the full length of the threads. In engineered I-joists, predrill with an appropriate drill bit two sizes smaller than the screw eyes.

Cutting and Hanging the Main Tees

6. Hang the rotating laser at the level you want the ceiling to be. Turn it on, let it level and adjust the height until the laser draws a line around the room at the correct height, typically 4 to 6 inches below the joists.

7. With the laser operating, hold a tape measure vertical with the end against a joist. The laser will mark the distance on the tape measure. Keep this measurement for installing the main tees.

8. Install the wall angle around the room. Start in one corner and screw through the wall angle into the studs. Put one screw into each stud as you go along. At corners, you can miter cut the bottom part of the angles to meet or simply butt one into the corner and install the second so it meets the first.

9. Thread a wire grid hanger through each screw eye and twist the end around the wire nine or 10 times. Do not twist the wire tight to the screw eye but leave a small loop so the hanger can swing freely.

10. Cut the main tees. The main tees have slots for the tabs on the cross tees and end tabs for joining themselves together. Using the calculation for the tile width on the walls perpendicular to the joists, measure a main tee from the first tab slot out towards the end tab and mark it. Cut the main tee at this mark with the shears.

11. Hang the main tees. Set the cut end of the main tee on the wall angle under the first chalk line. Choose the wire hanger nearest the uncut end of the main tee and thread it through a hole or slot directly beneath the screw eye. Raise the main tee until the laser mark just disappears from the main tee. Bend the hanger up and twist once or twice around itself to temporarily hold it in place.

12. Hang a second main tee from hangers along the chalk line and then join the two main tees together by inserting the tabs on each into the opposing slots on each. Each main tee will have a tab and a slot. The tab on one slides past the tab on the other and into the slot. They will lock together with a click.

13. At wall opposite the one you started at, cut the last main tee to fit. Although rarely not the case, verify before cutting that you'll be able to insert a cross tee at the correct distance from the wall.

14. Continue installing main tees until all are installed. Using the measurement taken with the tape and laser earlier, verify the main tees are at the correct height. As a final check, use the 4-foot level held to the bottom of the tees. Tighten the hangers as you go along, wrapping them 10 to 12 times around themselves and trimming long ends off.

Installing the Cross Tees

15. Measure out from the beginning wall the tile width calculated. Insert a the tab on a 4-foot cross tee into the tab slot on the first main tee and the main tee next to it.

16. Continue down the row, adding cross tees the length or width of the tiles you are using. For 2x2 tiles, this will be every 2 feet. For 2x4 tiles, this will be every 2 or 4 feet, depending on which way you decided to run the tiles.

17.Add cross tees between all the main beams until the interior grid is filled.

18. Measure and cut cross tees to fit around the edges of the grid. Fill in the exterior of the grid.

19. For 2x2 tiles only: Install 2-foot cross ties between the 4-foot cross ties using the center slots on the 4- foot tees. This will produce an interior 2x2 grid.

20. For 2x4 tiles installed perpendicular to joists only: Install a second set of 4-foot cross tees between the existing cross tees using the center tab slots on the already installed tees. This will produce an interior 2x4 grid.

Installing Tiles

21. Install any lay-in fluorescent lighting now. Add four screw eyes for each light and use heavy duty wire hangers. Can lights should also be wired now but don't clip them to the grid yet.

22. Start at the beginning side of the interior grid and put in a row perpendicular to the joists. Add a row along the beginning wall, also on the interior grid.

23. Cut tiles to fit the exterior grid along the first row of tiles installed. Use a square to measure the tiles and to make straight cuts. You want tight-fitting tiles that will help keep the grid square. Lay the tiles on a cutting surface or the floor and score the tile face deeply with the utility knife. Then snap it cleanly and install the tile.

24. Cut and install the exterior row parallel to the joists and the second row of tiles you installed. Again, tight-fitting tiles with straight cuts are best as they will keep the grid square.

25. Install the remaining interior tiles into the grid in rows parallel to the first row installed. Install any can lighting as you go along, using a hole saw sized to the can lights. Clip the lights into the grid as you go.

At the end of each row, cut and install the final tile for the row. Keep the cuts straight and even for professional-quality installation.

Use the 4-foot level to make any final adjustments to the grid height if an area looks uneven. The grid and tiles are heavy, and some stretching and settling is to be expected.

Corner beads

Wednesday, February 13, 2013