You can order a fiberglass shower in virtually any color to match your bathroom decor.
Fiberglass showers are prefabricated units that can come in divided sections that are assembled during installation. They can be gel-coated or acrylic fiberglass. Gel-coated fiberglass showers are repaired with a gel. Acrylic fiberglass showers are repaired with heated up sheets of acrylic that are stretched over the mold to cover up the cracks. Some people prefer fiberglass showers because they are easy to clean. You can replace or install a fiberglass shower over a weekend, with the help of a friend.
Instructions
1. Shut off the main water valve to the house. Open the sink faucet taps to drain any water remaining in the pipes.
2. Remove all plasterboard and tile. Clear the area where the new shower is going to be installed, 16-inches past the back of where the front of the shower will sit on the floor.
3. Check the floor to make sure it is sturdy and level. Make a wooden frame for the walls and ceiling of the shower according to the fiberglass shower's dimensions. If the floor is not level, use wooden shims to prop up the bottom of the frame. Make the frame straight, square and plumb against the wall and ceiling. The walls of the shower must not come into contact with the original studding of the house walls, so be sure to put the frame in front of them.
4. Drill a 4 3/4-inch hole in the center of the shower floor. This is for the shower drain. It will need a 2-inch clearance for the pipes and drain connection.
5. Insert the shower plumbing tree unit inside the shower frame. The shower arm and valve or faucet tap arm will have screw flanges on them. Align the back side of the screw flange with the front side of the 2-by-4 stud and mark it with a pencil. Drill holes for the screws and attach the shower plumbing tree unit to the studs.
6. Mark the position for the showerhead on the outer, fiberglass side of the shower. Drill 1/4-inch pilot holes at the pre-marked locations, drilling from the outside of the shower in.
7. Step inside the shower. Cut out the openings for the showerhead and valves, using the pilot holes as a guide.
8. Have a helper assist you with inserting the shower into the stud frame. Set the bottom flange directly up against the front studs and carefully tip the unit back into place. Check to make sure the drain connection lines up. Adjust if necessary. Use a level to level the unit both vertically and horizontally. Insert shims where needed to make the shower level by placing them under the support board. Glue the shims in place.
9. Check the shower door opening to make sure it is the proper size. It should be 42 1/2 inches wide. If it is smaller than this, cut a board to fill the gap and wedge it in place in the middle of the front flange opening. Take care not to damage the shower while doing so.
10. Fasten both of the side flanges to the studs. Drive drywall screws through the predrilled flange holes.
11. Wrap Teflon plumber's tape around the threaded ends of the pipes. Connect all of the plumbing to the water lines.
12. Finish the front of the shower unit with drywall. Use 1/4-inch shims to create a space between the drywall and the ends of the shower. Insert the shower capping. Cover with drywall finishing cement. Wait until the cement has dried, then sand and paint the color of your choice.
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