Pole buildings have been around for hundreds of years, because of their simplicity of design, ease of construction and scalability of layout. You can build a storage or barn-type structure in any size, from 20 feet square to hundreds of feet on a side, depending on your budget and needs. While it is not a single person job, a small group can put up a steel pole building with little special skills beyond welding. These instructions are for a building 10 feet square, with 10-foot tall columns. The material lengths and quantities can easily be adjusted for buildings of various sizes.
Instructions
Prepare the Site
1. Clear the land of all brush, trees, grass, surface rock and all other debris. Grade the site to make it approximately level. A pole building does not need a continuous footing or foundation or a floor slab, but a level site will make construction and use of the building easier.
2. Measure the desired lengths of all four sides of the building. Drive wooden stakes into the ground to mark locations for column footings no farther than 10 feet apart. Larger spans require larger structural members, which makes the building more difficult to construct without heavy equipment.
3. Dig holes for the column footings at the marked locations, about 2 feet in diameter and 3 to 4 feet deep. Built square temporary wooden forms to match the size of the base plates of the columns. Pour the concrete and finish it to a smooth flat surface to create a good bearing surface for the columns.
4. Insert threaded metal rods into the concrete while it is still wet, leaving about 4 inches protruding from the surface. Arrange the rods to match the holes in the pre-drilled column base plates, usually at the corners and midpoints of each side. These rods will provide support anchorage as well as a way to level and plumb the columns.
5. Wait for the concrete to cure completely before proceeding. Most concrete mixes obtain design strength in 28 days, but after one week it is strong enough to attach the columns.
Build the Structural Frame
6. Attach the steel columns to the prepared footings. Thread one high-strength steel nut on each anchor rod before placing the column, then one after. The first set of nuts is used to adjust and level the column, the second set secures and tightens the column to prevent further movement.
7. Bolt and weld the roof trusses to the top of the columns. You can purchase pre-manufactured steel roof trusses or weld your own from steel stock, creating holes at both ends to allow for bolted connections to the columns. Bolted and welded connections add rigidity to the structural frame, a key component of the building's stability.
8. Weld metal rods between columns diagonally from top to bottom, if cross bracing is required in your area. Consult with a structural engineer to determine if wind or seismic loads are substantial enough to require lateral cross bracing.
Enclose the Frame
9. Bolt and weld steel beams between columns at the top and bottom. In our building with 10-foot bays and 6-inch columns, the beams must span a clear width of 9 feet, 6 inches. This is the foundation of the cladding support system.
10. Attach metal studs between the top and bottom beams at 16-inch intervals, center to center, about 8 per 10-foot bay. Use sheet metal screws or weld for a stronger connection. This provides adequate strength while keeping the spans manageable for the exterior skin or cladding material.
11. Screw sheet metal panels directly to the studs, or first hang plywood sheeting to finish with brick, stucco, or siding material. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for proprietary exterior finish systems. The choice depends on the style as well as the use of the building. Our 10-foot square building would require approximately 5 sheets of metal or plywood per side, and at least that many for the sides of the roof, depending on the pitch.
12. Attach asphalt roof shingles with roofing nails. You can also use another roofing system, depending on the style and use of the building, as well as your budget.
13. Insulate and finish the interior with batt insulation installed between the studs and covered with gypsum board sheathing. If you plan to leave the space unconditioned, this step can be omitted.
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